Monday, July 29, 2013

A Tail of Two Cities

It was the best of times it was the…well, it was the greatest of times! You will not find the word “worst” in this blog thank you very much. Unless I’m talking about it was the worst flight. No matter how much I LOVE traveling, flying is evil, always will be and the only reason I put up with it is it’s cheap (relatively) and safe (or so I’m told).
Back to the topic at hand, this is about the two amazing weekends John and I spent traveling to two of Europe’s most enlivening cities.
Chapter 1: Paris
The trip to Paris was exciting, scary, tiring, cold and more beautiful than I imagined. Like most silly Americans I had a, well, dare I say, a negative bias towards the French. I took deux years of French in high school and have met many French people, including one foreign exchange student, Demitri , who was the opposite of a goodwill ambassador.  I have always thought of France as dirty, rude, overrated and just “Frenchy”.
When John told me he had a 4 day weekend I was excited, of course, but then he mentioned going to Paris. I know I made a face, but at the same time there is no way I could pass up a weekend in Paris with my hubby.
With low expectations we set out on the ICE train from Kaiserslautern to Paris!
The train ride was pleasant. Snow was still on the ground throughout most of the German country side and some of the eastern parts of France. It is about a 2.5 hour ride and it is nice just to watch the farms and ruins of World War turrets and gunnery stake outs pass by at speed of 100 mph plus. We saw some old chateaus and lots and lots of farm lands.
When we arrived in Paris, we arrived in a different  station than expected; that was when we realized that our French was not up to par. It is funny, John has been here almost a year and has a good idea of how to read the signs in train stations in Germany. In France we felt a little lost. It took a good 30 minutes to figure out where the heck we were. We also realized that the next time we go on a vacation we will take traveling backpacks. Suitcases are great for airports and Disneyland…not for European travel. The amount of stairs, uneven roads and sidewalks and gunk that you walk through makes suitcases a burden.
We left the subway and walked up the street where our hotel was located off of, and I was totally taken aback. Our hotel was a few hundred feet off of Avenue Champs Elysees! Champ Elysees! It was magnificent. The post cards do not do this place justice. We were right next to the Arc de Triomphe, the Place de la Concorde, all the luxury shops and restaurants of Paris…arguably the most famous street in the world.
The hotel was very modern and clean. We were told a Swiss artist designed the hotel a decade or so ago. Our room was small by American standards, but clean and chic, great location and affordable…that’s a great combo.
Of course the first stop was the Eiffel Tower. As we walked and walked and walked we turned the corner and I saw the tippy top of the Tower. We walked a little faster and then the Eiffel Towered appeared. I never paid much attention to this over photographed, cliché structure. As we overlooked the Champ de Mars and saw one of the most famous structures in the world, I was truly in awe. It was breathtakingly beautiful. Much larger than expected and the area surrounding it was just gorgeous. I then realized why this place is so very romantic. As John and I made our way down the numerous stairs to get to it we realized something amazing. There was an exotic car show going on right in front of the Eiffel Tower! Lamborghinis, Aston Martins, Mercedes SLS McLaren AMGs, Ferraris…you name it, it was there. After we wiped the drool from our mouths we walked a good 5 miles and saw the exteriors of the gorgeous sights in Paris.
Have I mentioned we went in March? Being from Texas this cold weather thing is new to me. I knew Germany was going to be chilly, but it was FREEZING in Paris. We didn’t see the actual temperatures but I was guessing 20s-30s F. We had coats, scarfs and boots , but next time I am bringing my “real” winter clothes. Paris is very windy and most places you walk, you are near the Seine River so there is a cold wind off of the water.
They have a different schedule in Paris, a different time table and a different attitude towards most things. I am slowly getting used to European service. As Americans we expect to be seated, our drink orders taken and our food orders to be taken with in the first 15-20 minutes. Here, well, if you get a drink order within 20 minutes consider yourself lucky. Paris takes this lackadaisical approach to dining and bumps it up even more. On average our meals took 2-3 hours. I’m not complaining, it’s just a different pace. The food was very delicious. We had escargot, lots and lots of wine and cheese, dried meats, veal, crème brulee and even more wine. Yes, the food is delicious, but expensive. Like really expensive. If you go to Paris you need to ask yourself a couple questions. First, do I want to eat well or shop? Secondly, if I want to do both, can I get a good interest rate on a loan? I know that’s an exaggeration, but when lunch is 70-90 Euros you can be taken aback every time you get a bill. I think this was the only time John was sad I have a gluten allergy and we couldn’t eat at McDonalds ;-)
We toured the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe, and a few other places that were really old and historically significant.
The Eiffel Tower’s views are magnificent. We could only go to the first stop on the elevator ride because the top was closed due to high winds. I saw how beautiful Paris is and that it is very vast. I always just think of the main parts of Paris but it has been there a long time and has grown with every passing century.
The Louvre was interesting. Honestly I was looking forward to this stop the most. I came away with a sense of awe and exhaustion. This place is crazy large. We went through two sections and by the end of the second sections we were beat. We was used to walking a lot, you get used to that living in Europe, but my goodness, this place keeps going and going and going.
It was interesting to see that even though John and I have many of the same interests, we are captivated my different types of art. John was transfixed on “The Return of Marus Sextus” by Geurin.  It was a beautiful and very large painting. Watching him just take it in was great. He has an artistic eye and I love that about him. I was awestruck by how simply beautiful the Venus de Milo is and how it looks like it was just fashioned yesterday. I walked around the corner and saw it standing in the middle of a room. No glass around it, it was just standing there. The marble looked like skin and her face was breathtaking.
All in all Paris exceeded my expectations. I admit they were low expectations, but I know that even with the fairy tale/movie expectations most people have, Paris will not disappoint.

Chapter 2: Barcelona
It was a very long winter in Germany. Even the locals said so, it wasn’t just this Texan girl SICK of snow and coldness. Going to Barcelona was our first trip flying within the EU experience and we were ready to go somewhere warm…or at least not snowing.
 First off let me say that flying within the EU is like a spa day compared to flying within the USA. You can keep your shoes on; they don’t feel you up and imagine being treated like a person on vacation instead of cattle. It wasn’t the best experience, but compared to the TSA these people made me smile.
After a little mix up on which airport to go to, we made it to Spain. I won’t go into details on who the fault should lie with or whatever buuuuut…it wasn’t  me. *Travel Tip: make sure you’re going to the correct airport of you will have a temperamental travel buddy and will have to spend some extra Euro*
Spain was at first busy, congested, a little dirty and not as picturesque as other places in Europe. It definitely has a different flair than Germany, Luxembourg and France. Once we got away from the airport the real Spain popped its head out. So many intricate buildings, a diversity of people, street artwork, and so many different types of restaurants, this Spain was beautiful.

We stayed in what we can only assume was “China Town”, but it was more “Asian Town”  actually. The hotel was very roomy; a full living room, kitchen, bathroom, TWO closets (I miss having closets in Germany), balcony, and a roomy bathroom. The location was great. We were 10-15 minutes from most of the major touristy stops in downtown Barcelona. The subway systems in Paris and Barcelona rock. Once you pinpoint where you are in relation to a stop, it’s really easy to buy a 3 day pass and ride the sub the whole trip. It is interesting having no personal space sometimes.   That’s the biggest thing I have had to get used to and I am still working on that. Having people around you ALL the time, no breaks, just people. I realized how spoiled I was in my huge town home, my own car, my own space.
After walking around downtown Barcelona for a bit we realized,  me more so than John, we knew very little about Spain, its history other than Columbus era, and had no idea where to go. That was when we realized the great thing about Barcelona; you go to Barcelona to see Barcelona, not to see a specific thing or place, it’s a great city and you just soak it in and smile. The people are friendly, they don’t seem to mind “silly Americans” just walking around and taking pictures and getting lost.
We saw the Museu del Temple Expiatori de La Sagrada Familia, La Pedrera by Antoni Gaudí, Barcelona Cathedral and many other architectural wonders. This city is filled with amazing buildings, artists and food.

Oh goodness. The food! By far the best overall selection of food in Europe so far. The meats are delicious, the seafood was amazing and fresh, and the local wines were cheap and mouthwatering.  We found a , out of all things, a true Tex Mex restaurant. After we asked the waitress, who ended up being the owner’s wife, what she would suggest we ordered the enchiladas.  Many times we have been told, “this dish is spicy”, many times we have been disappointed. She asked how spicy we wanted our red and verde enchiladas, I said 4 out of 10 and John said 7 out of 10. She paused and looked at him and said “7? Are you sure?”, and he replied yes. Before the food was brought out we have margaritas. The margaritas of Spain and most places that serve them here do not resemble the ones you get in the states. They do not come in but margarita glasses with salt and sugar and an umbrella. They are simple and strong and yummy.  

A short time later, the owner comes out with our dinners and wants to meet the person who ordered the “7” enchilada. He was happy someone wanted a spicy meal and man, was it spicy. It had a great flavor but it got your attention and held on to it with tears and sweat. I only had a taste but that was enough. My “4” was perfect for me and we talked to the owner and his wife after we enjoyed the house specialty. We found out that he had attended University of Texas in Austin for a couple of years and LOVED Texas. I mumbled a “Whoop” and did a ‘Gig Em thumb and he just laughed and hooked his horns (the Texan readers will make sense of those terms). It ended up being a small world situation and we had a great time making new friends.

The last full day we were in Barcelona we went to the beach. We instantly regretted not going to the beach sooner. It was so beautiful. Blue water, white sand, pretty shops and stores, clean streets and old men in banana hammocks. What really threw me off was that even though it was maybe 45-50 degrees, it felt warm, and it was sunny and except for the actual wind chill we were ready for some fun in the sun. As we peeled our layers off we realized it was warm as long as you had layers on. So we laid in the sun, in jeans and sweaters and drank Coronas. At that moment we decided that we will be coming back and when it was actually warm, not just warm compared to Germany. 

All in all I loved both cities. They had their own merits. Paris a great city with history galore, shopping, culture, and amazing photo ops. Barcelona was warm, inviting, delicious, affordable and amazing to explore. 

I am truly blessed that I was able to see both within my first year here. I will always cherish those memories and look forward to making more in the amazing cities around the world!



Tuesday, March 12, 2013

History in your face


Until it started showing shows about dysfunctional families that sell their pride and privacy for money, I once loved to watch History Channel.

In school I was a science nerd. I love animals and once seriously considered pursuing a career in Marine Biology. That was until I realized the chance of working with Shamu was slim to none and I didn't want to study one shrimp for 10 years.  Second to science I always enjoyed history class and learning about other cultures. Being able to live abroad is AMAZING, and I am so very lucky to be able to do so comfortably and with the man I love.

Watching a show or reading about some of the darker times in history, i.e. Civil War, WWII, Bubonic Plague, is much different than actually seeing the places people died and suffered during those times.

A few days ago I had a moment, a moment and a realization that "holy crap, I'm in Germany and people were taken and killed in these towns not too long ago".

This past Saturday me and a couple of girl friends went to Neustadt, a small town 20 minutes by train from Hochspeyer (where I live). I was promised good coffee, shopping and cute scenery. What I did not expect was to see history in the middle of the street.

Stumbling Blocks: These are cobble stone sized memorials for people who were consigned by the Nazis to prisons, euthanasia facilities, sterilization clinics, concentration camps, and extermination camps. They are simply marked with the person's name, date of birth, date of deportation, and, if known, the date they died.


I had heard of the Stolpersteine (Stumbling Blocks) a while back and my memory was refreshed at the museum in Trier. There we saw a display of WWII and 3rd Reich memorabilia that included one of these blocks. People have different opinions about the blocks. Some say there are impersonal, some say we should not speak of that time, others think it's a good reminder that bad things happen and we should try to prevent them from happening again.

It was humbling seeing one in the street. This meant that to some variation in location, these two people, I'm assuming brother and sister, were taken from their home, their families and went through hell. Just because some people thought that one kind of person was better suited to live than others. Honestly it almost knocked me on my ass. I just stood there...

The lesson I took from this shopping trip: History is interesting, but never forget that it involved real people, with real lives that were lost and stolen. Therefore, live and enjoy the freedom you have. I know I take things for granted, we all do, but I like to remember how lucky I am.  I really am.

Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Fastnacht, Karneval, Fasching

Fastnacht, Karneval, Fasching...Whatever you call it, it means fun, festivities and costumes.

We all know about Lent, Mardi Gras, beads, boobs, drinks and the fun debauchery that comes with days like Fat Tuesday. Now that you have stopped reminiscing about your crazy days on Bourbon Street, let me tell you about the German version of Mardi Gras and Fat Tuesday. It's called Fasching and Fastnacht depending on where you are and what night you are partying. If you want the historical background or significance, Google it, I am going to tell you of our plans for debauchery and what actually happened.

After a long day at work my wonderful husband took me out on the town to celebrate our first German festival together as a married couple. We had partied at Oktoberfest, but that was just as girlfriend and boyfriend. We were really planning on living it up because we were darned if we were going to be the old married couple of a full 3 weeks that didn't go out and try the local debauchery.

As my plans always do, we changed from taking the train to Kaiserslautern and just drove because John left his phone at the office and that's pretty much in Ktown. He offered to be the DD and I was free to drink it up! We parked our large SUV in the tiny parking garage and headed off to fun and craziness.

There was just one problem, the fun and craziness had left and we were left with extremely drunk college kids and German carnys packing up their tiny carnival rides. As we walked the streets of Ktown we realized that the party was that afternoon and that everything was winding down by 6:30.

Seriously Germany? You take a great cultural festival that involves drinking, revelry and costumes and condense it to a Tuesday afternoon? Hmmmph, silly Germans.

Once we realized there was no carnival, no outdoor party, no clowns (thank goodness), we laughed, shivered (it was like -8 Celsius  and went in search for food and drink. As we approach a building that looks  like it's a good 500 years old we hear Oompa music and see a pink bunny standing at the door. Yes, a pink bunny. Well it's a lady dressed as a pink bunny, but not in  a sexy way, more like a "Christmas Story" pink bunny pajama outfit. Warm and creepy.

We were denied admission because John had a backpack. He was carrying his nice camera, but they had a strict no bad policy. In the midst of the bunny telling him this I poked my head in and saw a scene from pirates of the Caribbean. I saw drunk pirates holding steins, dancing and leaning on each other singing a song of drinking and love, or so I imaged that is what the song is about. So we carried on in the freezing night and saw many options for substance and agreed on a Thai restaurant. Yep, we walked through a German town, in the middle of the reminisce of a Bavarian Carnival and we get a hankering for Asian cuisine.

It was really tasty. I would recommend it if I could remember the name of the place. I had chicken pad thai and John had pork curry something or other. I ordered a drink called "Zombie" and it came in a skull cup much to my delight. It was strong...I warmed up quickly and we had a great dinner.

                                                                                             Yummy Zombie drink

A bit frustrated we missed everything and not ready to call it quits at 19:30, we marched on and found another watering hole that accepted us and wasn't as packed with drunk pirates. Again, I don't know that name of the place but it was fun. It was 57% full of young people dressed in a array of costumes. They varied from Roman Centurions, Smurfs, Amy Winehouse, the Situation, to naughty police officers.

We make it to the bar and feel a bit silly we are the only ones not in silly costumes. Then as I am taking off my coat and other layers I am actually dressed properly. Wearing my jeans, cowgirl boots, black and white plaid pearl snap shirt and my James Avery Texas necklace was a great call. I notice about 5 other girls with the same outfits with small variations. At that moment I realize I am dressed in a costume, I'm a Cowgirl!Yeehaw!

We hung out for a bout an hour and watched Amy Winehouse snort coke with a vampire and slow dance to "Blinded by the Light" by Manfred Mann. By the way, what the heck is that song about?

Sorry to disappointing kids, that's about the end of our evening. Well, as much as I will blog about *blush*.

We learned another lesson to apply to next year, start drinking at 12:00, get a warm costume and take the train to wherever we go.

Guten Fastnacht, Fasching, Karneval!


                                                                            Trying to stay warm in Kaiserslautern's town square

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Marbles


What I am looking forward to the most besides traveling to new and exciting places with my wonderful husband is the quirky cultural misunderstandings that lead to laughs and memories. I'm sure there will be plenty but last week, I believe it was Tuesday, we had our first WTH? moment.

We went to Real (pronounced Ree-al) which is a German mix of a mall and Sears/Walmart, but classier. It's nice, people wear real clothes, no pajama pants. I'll control myself and not rant on how much I hate going to Walmart. 

After a nice shopping expedition we acquired organizational bathroom stuffs and a few other things. We made it  to die Kasse [cash register], yes I will randomly write in German because it's good practice and it's fun imagining people trying to pronounce the words, and paid for our items. The cashier handed us a few small bags and a large bag that resembled jaw breaker candy. John and I of course get extremely excited to try our first free German candy when we get home. As we drive home we are imagining the goodies that we just received for free. Would they be sweet? Spicy?
Haha, we knew they wouldn't be spicy, the Germans do not do spicy, just strong tastes. Would they taste like beer? sauerkraut? schnitzel? Ok, that's being a bit stereotypical, but this stuff is everywhere.

We arrive triumphantly at home and rush to the couch and divvy up the loot. I of course get the large one because John is so very sweet. At Real we had noticed many displays of these goofy Centurion cartoons that looked either extremely gay (take that word either way) or drunk off many many steins of beer.

As you are guessing we opened the bags and they are cold and not appetizing at all.  We were in shock. What is this treachery?! This isn't candy! Marbles?!! WTH?

I of course lick one of the small ones just in case...at that point our pitiful sad faces turned to laughs

First question is Why are they handing out marbles to two adults?  Second, Why are these cartoons so very entertaining? Thirdly, What in the world is the green marble Centurion dude shoving in his mouth? I'm not so curious to really look into it and search around for references to these little people. I am sure we will see them again.

I guess this is what the toys at McDonald's look like to outsiders, but we don't hand toys out to adults in candy wrappers. It was quite mean. Yes, we were this upset over not getting candy...we will get over it, but it was a lesson learned. Lick before biting into what strangers give you :-)

Silly Germans 

Saturday, February 9, 2013